a fall jacket

Toward the end of July I’m always ready to move on to fall sewing. I remember two summers ago, buying the wool for Lila’s School Days coat and waiting not-so-patiently until October to sew it. But this time I didn’t bother waiting, and aside from feeling a little ridiculous about taking these photos in the August heat, I’m glad to have this jacket ready and waiting for the fall.

I was nervous to use this pattern (Burda 9501) because my last experience with Burda was a fail. Commercial patterns are a bit sparse and cryptic when it comes to diagrams and directions, which can be frustrating when you’re accustomed to the detailed, conversational-style of Oliver + S and Rae and the like. There’s definitely no hand-holding or helpful tips with commercial patterns – you’re just kinda on your own. But I loved the simple style of the jacket and really wanted to try it, so I just crossed my fingers and hoped I wouldn’t muck it up too badly.

And while I certainly scratched my head a few times along the way, there was nothing that stopped me dead in my tracks, and for that I am pretty happy indeed.

The jacket is fully lined (in Michael Miller Cotton Couture in Cream), and not just sew-the-whole-thing-right-sides-together-and-turn-rightside-out lined, but properly lined with a yoke and facings and built-in ease, and a good deal of hand stitching at the sleeves and hem. Which, admittedly, my mom did for me, because I have little patience for hand sewing.

But if you’re looking for a simply designed jacket with clean lines and professional details (oh yeah, and you already know how to make a jacket!), Burda 9501 isn’t a bad choice at all.

Also, the size 4 fits her SO perfectly. Like it was made for her or something. Which of course it was, but as you know, that doesn’t always translate to a great fit. The few commercial patterns I’ve tried in the past have come out big and boxy, but this one is nice and slim and fits really well. Maybe that’s a Burda thing, but I was pleasantly surprised.

I meant to add a little loop in the back yoke/collar seam so the jacket could be hung on a hook, but it was too late by the time I remembered, so instead I sewed a twill tape name tag onto the lining, quadruple stitched to (hopefully) support the weight of the jacket when it hangs. And I finished it off with wooden buttons. Because I pretty much always use wooden buttons.

The fabric is Poppies in Paprika, an organic canvas from Birch Fabrics home decor line, The Grove. It was lovely to work with – it’s fairly lightweight for home dec, similar in feel and weight to a Kokka cotton/linen blend. And it was provided by a new sponsor, an Etsy-based fabric shop called LiMa Sews.

I’m really excited to work with Linh of LiMa Sews because she has an amazing selection of organic fabrics from Cloud 9 and Birch, including Rashida Coleman-Hale’s lovely Tsuru, the Camp Modern wood grains, and those irresistible, colorful elk from Elk Grove. Plus loads of other great stuff, like all the Pearl Braclets! She also offers long-arm quilting services. And if all that weren’t enough, she happens to live right in my neck of Portland and I’ve known her for years, so I’m just all-around happy to introduce her today. She has soooo many great lines arriving in the coming months – seriously, keep your eye on this shop!

You know, I went back and forth between this print and Flight for this jacket – and honestly, I have some remorse about not choosing the gray. But I thought Lila might prefer the poppies, and I did want her to wear it, after all. So I think there may have to be a Flight jacket in Oscar’s future. Speaking of which, does anyone know a good baby or toddler jacket pattern besides Anna Maria Horner’s Baby in the Hood jacket?

Okay, that’s all. Happy fall sewing, if you’ve started on yours!

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